Folding multiply fabric construction



NOV. 10, 1953 o, S LAWTON 2,658,535

FOLDING MULTIPLY FABRIC CONSTRUCTION Filed June 7, 1950 5 Sheets-Sheet l g Nin,

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Nov. l0, 1953 o. s. LAwToN FOLDING MULTIPLI FABRIC CONSTRUCTION 5 Sheets-Sheet 3 Filed June '7, 1950 INVENTOR.

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Nov. 10, 1953 o. s. LAwToN FOLDING MULTIPLY FABRIC CONSTRUCTION 5 Sheets-Sheet 4 Filed June 7, 1950 INVENTOR.

Nov. 10, 1953 O. S. LAWTON FOLDING MULTIFLY FABRIC CONSTRUCTION Filed June 7, 1950 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 Patented Nov. 10, 1953 FOLDING MULTIPLY FABRIC CONSTRUCTION Oscar S. Lawton, New Bedford, Mass., assignor to Phillips-Jones Corporation, New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application June 7,' 1950, Serial No. 166,563

Claims.

This invention relates generally to the art of textiles and more particularly to multi-ply fabrics.

There are many articles composed of textile fabrics in which it is desirable that the normally planar material be arranged in a fold. While it has heretofore been proposed to produce such folds in a number of ways, including pressing and/or weakening the fabric along the fold line, such prior constructions have not been entirely satisfactory.

It is therefore among the objects of the present invention to provide multi-ply fabric constructions in which the fabric has a tendency to fold or bend in a predetermined direction along a predetermined lineal area or fold zone, and resists folding or bending in the opposite direction.

Another object herein lies in the provision of structure of the class described in which the basic arc radius of the bend or fold may be predetermined within desired limits. This results in the formation of proper bends or fold zones which are accommodated to the particular use.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a textile fabric of multi-ply weave in which the fold Zone or bend is produced by the coaction of lines of the fabric which are resistant to folding and lines of the fabric which are predisposed to bending and in a predetermined direction.

A further object herein lies in the provision of a folded multi-ply fabric, highly useful, for example, in a collar or cuff which is exposed to successive flexures during laundering and wear, and in which by virtue of the reduction in the sharpness of the fold, the face ply is subjected to less lateral tension and the back ply is subject to less compression. This results in the elimination or at least considerable diminution of the acute angles to which the fibers of the components thereof are normally subject in prior art constructi-on, and in less disturbance of the face warp threads and a consequent reduction of fabric roughness at the bend.

A still further object of the present invention is the incorporation into fabric portions of a garment where a crease is not desired, of a predisposition to curve, bulge, or undulate in a given direction, thereby causing inherent resistance of the fabric to curve, bulge or undulate in the opposite direction when such opposite tendencies are caused by outside influences in normal wear of the garment. This object is attained by the use of the present novel fabric construction and arrangement. This mode of operation may be obtained by Varying the Width or bulk of the flexlines and/or the width and bulk of the resistflex-lines.

These objects and other ends and advantages will more fully appear in the progress of this disclosure and be pointed out in the appended claims.

In the drawings, similar reference characters designate corresponding parts throughout the several views:

Figure 1 is a fragmentary view in perspective, exaggerated in dimensions, showing a multi-ply fabric in the fold zone thereof, and embodying the present invention.

Figure 2 is an enlarged fragmentary perspective view of a portion of Figure 1 showing parts in greater detail.

Figure 3 is a fragmentary sectional view as seen from the plane 3 3 on Figure 2 and also showing adjoining fabric portions not seen in Figure 2.

Figure 4 is a view in perspective of a collar embodying the present invention.

Figure 5 is an enlarged fragmentary sectional View as seen from the plane 5-5 on Figure 4.

Figure 6 is a perspective view showing a second embodiment of the invention with the cape portion of the collar in an elevated position.

Figure 7 is a fragmentary perspective View of the second embodiment with the cape portion of the collar in normal position as worn.

Figure 8 is a fragmentary enlarged vertical sectional view as seen from the plane 8 8 on Figure 7.

Figure 9 is a fragmentary View in perspective of a collar as worn showing the tendency of the collar points to curl in the absence of the present invention.

Figure l0 is a View corresponding to Figure 9 but showing the position into which the parts are urged by the inclusion of the present construction.

Figure 11 is a fragmentary view in perspective of a tied necktie showing another embodiment of the invention.

Figure 12 is an enlarged fragmentary sectional view as seen from the plane l 2-l2 on Figure 11.

Figure 13 is a fragmentary perspective view of the lining element of Figure 12.

Figure 14 is a View in perspective of a pair of trousers showing another use of the invention.

Figure 15 is a fragmentary sectional view corresponding in most respects to Figure 3, but showing a plurality of fold Zones.

Figure 16 is a fragmentary sectional view showing in greater detail the structure of Figure l2, but in a attened condition.

n accordance with the invention multi-ply fabric is constructed and arranged so that in the area along which the fabric shall have a predisposition to fold, or the fold Zone, said fabric shall have a plurality of lines which offer resistance to folding and interposed between said last mentioned lines are lines which have a predisposition to fold in a predetermined direction. The fold lines may be referred to as flexlines while the other lines may be referred to as resist-nex-lines or exion stops.

While, as will more fully appear, the present invention may have varied application, for the purpose of illustration I have chosen to describe it in detail as contained in a collar which may be of the attached or separate type shown.

The fabric generally indicated by reference character l on Figure 1 includes one or more fold areas or zones l2 (Figures 5 and 15) bordered by normal weave areas i4 and I6 on Fgures3 and 15.

The normal weave areas may include face warps I3 and 20, back warps 22 and 24, face weft or filler portions 26 and 28, back weft' or filler portions 5G and 32, guts 34 and 36, and binders 38 and 40. By reason of the relatively equal bulk and tension existing in the face and back plies of the normal weave areas I4 and I6 these show substantially no predisposition to fold or curve except such as is imparted to them by the fold zone 2. When it is desired to reduce or eliminate the tendency of the cape or outer body of the collar to curl up or out, additional fold zones (see Figure 15) may be incorporated therein.

The fold zone I2 includes a plurality of flexlines or sub zones 42, 44, 46 and 48 with which are alternated resist-fleX-lines or sub zones or flexion stops 5B, 52 and 54. The portions of the normal weave next to theV outermost flex-lines act as the outermost resist-ex-lines.

The flex-lines may be Varied with respect to each other, but inthe example shown the flex'- lines are substantially identical, and a detailed description of one will suffice for all. There are a plurality of face warps 56, 51, 58 and 59 disposed between successive pairs of binder warps such as the binder warps 60, 6l and 62, 63, which are preferably set two by two oppositionally in pairs in a two by two weave.

The intermediate resist-eX-lines may be varied with respect to each other, but in the example shown are substantially identical and a detailed description of one will suffice for all. These intermediate resist-flex-lines or flexion stops, in the example shown, have a plurality of face warps S6, 6l, 68 and 69, and a plurality of guts 16, ll and 78.

There are no back warp threads in the flexlines or resist-fleX-lines as shown in this example, although back warps may be used with a reduction in predisposition to fold. But the total bulk of such back warps must be substantially less than the total bulk or lateral compression of the face warps, so as to permit the binders in the flex-lines (when viewed in cross section) to converge at a focal point at or rearward of the back ply.

The composite fabric is unified by the face fillers or wefts 10 and the back fillers or wefts 80. The face and back wefts 10 and 80 respectively are interconnected by the binder Warps,

while the guts are disposed therebetween. When no back warps are present in the fold zone the pairs of binder warp threads together with the interwoven back weft form the back weave. While, as seen in Figures 3 and 5 there are six pairs of binder threads, the single binder threads 38a and 45a which lie immediately laterally outward of the outermost flex-lines 42 and 48 respectively may be of paired arrangement corresponding to the pairs 60-6I and 62-63. Thus in the exampe illustrated the fold zone comprises (beside the weft threads) twenty-eight face warp threads and fourteen binder warp threads. The back ply comprises (beside the weft threads) only the fourteen binder threads.

This results in the face ply being under a greater amount of lateral pressure while the back ply is under substantially much less lateral pressure or free of lateral pressure. The composite fabric I0 therefore has a predisposition to fold or bendr toward the back ply. As presently understood, the folding or bending takes place principally along the flex-lines 42, 44, 46, and 48 so that, for example, when four flex-lines form a fold, they equally share the fold so that each has a substantially 45 bend. The resistflex-lines do not bend or at most bend relatively little so that the entire fold zone takes on a somewhat polygonal cross-sectional arrangement, as seen in Figure 5. The binders on each successive weft pick pass from face to back through the fabric in a generally radial formation (like the spokes of a 4wheel) spread out and held apart on the face of the fabric I0 by the four face warp threads, and said binders come snugly together on the back of the flex-lines when there are no back warp threads intervening. In Figures l, 2, 3 and 5 this is not shown because the fabric structure on said figures has been laterally (as well as vertically) expanded in order to show the structure. In a successfully acting model of the collar shown in Figure 5, the yarn counts were: face warps size 58/2, binders 100/2, guts 48/2, wefts 53/2 (118 picks to the inch), so that in actual use the weave is fine enough to present a desirable appearance and which to the naked eye on the face of the fabric I0 appears substantially uniform with the normal fabric portions I4 and I6, and the polygonal structure appears as a uniform arc to the naked eye.

The arcuation of the fold line l2 is thus predetermined and established, forcefully latent in the flex-lines 42 to 48, even when the fabric I0 lays unfolded or flat. The forcefulness of this arcuation tendency may be tested by endeavoring manually to reverse the direction of the fold. It will then be observed that the resistance is large, The flex-lines, resist-fleX-lines, and binders all coact to have the predisposition to bend the fabricin the predetermined direction about an axisv below the plane of the fabric, the circumference of the bend being formed by the face warps.

Because of the plurality of flex-lines the fold zone may be. referred to as having a multi-linear fold. The number of flex-lines (and hence the number of resist-flex-lines to correspond therewith) may be altered to suit particular requirements. Increasing the number of flex-lines or increasing the width of the resist-flex lines (at right angles to the warps) tends to increase the radius of the fold arc in the fold zone I2.

As shown in Figures 3 to 5 inclusive, the fold zone l2 is bordered by the normal weave areas M and I6. Where it is desired to have the fold zone commence at the selvage or free edge of the fabric IB one of the normal weave areas may be omitted. So that for example in Figure 4 by the extension of the fold zone the outer free edge portion of the fold zone may be engaged by the front and rear plies l'l and I9 of the neckband 2|. If it is desired to produce a collar in which the cape portion 23 has a continuing bend or roll the fold zone may be expanded toward the bottom edge 25 of the collar 21. Where it is desired to reduce the tendency for the peaks or tabs 23 and 3| to curl outwardly, appropriate fold zones may be introduced in these areas. This more fully appears later.

As previously stated each of the flex-lines tends to carry its proportionate share of the overall arcuation of the fold Zone |2; that is for example, where there are four flex-lines each will tend to carry 45 of the total fold or bend. The said dex-lines, iianked on either side by the flexion stops or resist-flex-lines are in the example given too narrow to permit the full arcuation of 180 on any one of the flex-lines alone. If it should happen that one flex-line should flex with greater ease than another, it will arc only until the walls of the stops, that is to say the next adjacent binders on either side of the iiexline come together at the back ply, at which time the arcing motion will pass over to other ilexlines.

The inherent tendency of the flex-lines to fold may be reduced, and the chord of arc of the fold in the fold zone may be increased by the introduction of guts inbetween the face and back wefts in the dex-lines. Thus as indicated by the dot dash lines on Figure 2, a gut 'l5 may be so placed.

Turning now to the second embodiment of the invention illustrated in Figures 6 to 10 inclusive, for the purpose of avoiding needless repetition certain of the parts corresponding to the prior described embodiment are given the same reference characters with the addition of the prefix u2.

The second embodiment differs from the first embodiment principally in the provision in the cape portion 223 of multi-ply fabric construction having a predisposition to bend or curve inwardly so that the position of the cape portion as shown in Figure 9 will be avoided and the cape portion will take the position shown in Figure 10.

This mode of operation is obtained by having alternating flex-lines 242 and resist-flex-lines 250 in the cape portion 223. The flex-lines 242 are similar to the flex-lines 42-48 previously described except that they are narrower, having only two face warps 256 and 251. In order to obtain a more obtuse bending of the cape portion, a gut thread 24| is introduced into the ilexlines, but back warps are absent. The resistflex-lines 25d are similar to the resist-flex-lines Eii-i previously described but these too are preferably narrower and to obtain greater body, since they already have gut threads, back warps 239 are added.

Turning now to Figures 11 to 13 inclusive and Figure 16 the use of the present invention in the forming of a necktie lining Il!) is illustrated. Where it is desired t provide a depression |09 in the necktie m adjacent the knot |07, the lining il@ may include a first fold zone I2 which is flanked by laterally displaced and oppositely directed fold zones 3 and 5. Here the number of flex-lines and the corresponding number of flexion stops in each fold zone may be altered 6 to give the desired predisposition to the fold as well as the approximate radius of arcuation.

Turning now to the embodiment illustrated in Figure 14, this shows a pair of trousers in which the fold zones 3|2 in each trouser leg are so disposed to produce the crease in the front of the trouser legs |06. Here again the yarn count, loom tensions, and composition and spacing of the flex-lines and resist-ilex-lines may be adjusted to produce the desired configuration of the creases. Similar structure may be used at the rear of the trousers.

It may thus be seen that there has been disclosed novel and useful fabric structure which is applicable where folds or bends in body fabric are desired for particular uses. Since the number, size and arcuity of the fold zones may be controlled at the time the fabric is loomed, many adaptations may be made. Thus for example in addition to examples previously given the present structure may be used to produce accordion pleats, garment cuffs, draping effects in decorative fabrics such as used in the furniture and window drapery elds and the like. Fabric constructed in accordance with the invention to have predetermined alternately reverse position folds may have use, for example, in connection with folding doors of the accordion type and extensible couplings, such as camera bellows, and duct connectors.

I wish it to be understood that I do not desire to be limited to the exact details of construction shown and described, for obvious modifications will occur to a person skilled in the art to which the invention pertains.

I claim:

l. A composite multi-ply fabric having a fold zone comprising: a plurality of face warps; a plurality of warp wise threads rearward of the face warps, which are spaced from each other in groups to form a rst plurality of sub Zones free of said warp wise threads and a second plurality of sub-Zones having warp-wise threads; back wefts; face wefts interwoven with said face warps; groups of binders disposed along the outer margins of said sub Zones; said binders being interwoven with said face and back wefts; the total bulk of said warp wise threads being less than the total bulk of the overlying face warps in each of said second plurality of sub zones.

2. A composite multi-ply fabric having a fold Zone comprising: a plurality of flex-lines and a plurality' of flexion stops; said fold zone having a plurality of face warps; face wefts interwoven with said face warps to form a front ply; a plurality of warp wise threads rearward of said face ply and spaced from each other in groups to form said flexion stops containing said warp wise threads; a plurality of groups of binders located between said flexion stops and said flex-lines, said binders being interwoven with said face and back wefts; the total bulk of said warp wise threads being less than the face warps lying forwardly thereof in each flexion stop.

3. A multi-ply fabric comprising: a front ply composed of face warps and wefts, a back ply composed of back warps and back wefts, and a plurality of binders interconnecting said face and back plies; said fabric having a fold zone with a predisposition to bend in the direction of the back ply, said fold Zone including a plurality of dex-lines and a plurality of resist-flexlines alternately interposed between said exlines, said flex-lines being free of back warps Mlm man.

7 andsaid resist-flex-lines having a plurality of guts located between the plies thereof.

4. A multi-ply fabricv comprising: a front ply composed of face w-arps and face wefts; a back plyV composed of back warps and back wefts, and ar plurality of binders interconnecting said face and back plies, said fabric having a plurality of fold zones with. a predisposition to bend in the direction of the back ply, said fold zonesv including a plurality of dex-lines and a plurality of resist-fleX-lines alternately interposed between said flex-lines, said flex-lines being free of back warps and said resist-flex-lines having a plurality of guts located between the plies thereof.

A multi-ply fabric comprising: s. front ply composed of face warps and face wefts; a baclr` ply composed of backA warps, and back wefts, and a plurality of binders interconnecting saidv face and back plies,l said fabric having a rst fold Zone with a, predisposition to bend in the direction of the back ply and a second fold Zone with a predisposition to bend in the direction of the front` ply.

6'. A multi-ply fabric comprising: a front ply composed of interwoven face warps and face wefts; a back ply composed of interwoven back warps and back. wefts; said fabric including a fold zone over which the fabric has a predisposition to bend in a direction about an axis disposed rearwardly of said front ply; a plurality of binders interconnecting said face and back plies, said binders forming in said fold zone a plurality of rst sub Zones, a portion of which are provided with guts disposed between said face and back plies; said first sub Zones being disposed alternately between a plurality of second sub Zones which are free of said guts.

7. A multi-ply fabric comprising: a front ply composed of face warps and face wefts; a back ply composed of back warps and back wefts; said fabric including a fold zone over which the fabric has a predisposition to bend in a direction about an axis disposed rearwardly of said front ply; a plurality of binders interconnecting said face and back plies, said binders forming in said fold zone a. plurality of first sub zones, a portion of which are provided with guts disposed between said face and back plies; said rstsub zones being disposed between a plurality of second sub zones which arer free of said guts.

8. A multi-ply fabric comprising: a front ply composed of interwoven face warps and face wefts; a back ply composed of interwoven back warps and back wefts; said fabric including a plurality of fold zones over which the fabric has. a predisposition to` bend; a plurality of binders; interconnecting said face and back plies, said binders forming in said fold zones a plurality of first sub zones, a portion of which are provided with guts disposed between said face and back plies; saidl first sub zones being disposed between a plural-ity of second sub zones which are free of said guts; said fold zones being so disposed that alternate fold zones have a predisposition to bend in opposite directions from the adjoining fold zones.

9. A multi-ply fabric comprising: a front ply composed of face warps and face wefts; a back ply composed of back warps and back wefts; said fabric including a fold Zone over which the fabric has av predisposition to bend in a direction about an axis disposed rearwardly of said front ply; a plurality of binders interconnecting said face and back plies, said binders forming in said fold zone a plurality of rst sub zones, a portion of which are provided withwarp-wise threads disposed between saidy face and back plies; said first sub zone being disposed between a plurality oaf-second sub zones which are free of warp-wise threads.

l0. A multi-ply fabric comprising: a front ply lcomposed of interwoven face warps and face wefts; a back ply composed of interwoven back warps and back wefts; said fabric including a fold Zone over which the fabric has a predisposition to bend in a direction about an axis disposed rearwardly of said front ply; a plurality of binders interconnecting said face and back plies, said binders forming in said fold zone a plurality of first sub zones, a portion of which are provided with warp-wise threads disposed between said face and back plies; said first sub zones being disposed alternately between a plurality of second sub zones which are free of said warp-wise threads.

OSCAR S. LAWTON.

References Cited in the le of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 1,474,079 Horton Nov'. 13, 1923 1,947,508 Zimmerer Feb. 20, 1934 2,322,889 Shepherd et al. June 29, 1943 2,393,828 Skinkle et al. Jan. 29, 1946 2,393,829 Skinkle et al. Jan. 29, 1946 FOREIGN PATENTS Number Country Date 389,974 lGreat Britain Mar. 30 1933 

